Sunday, February 05, 2012

A day in the life: pre-gaming Mardi Gras 2012

Mardi Gras kicked off Sunday. Of course, Kanival (i.e. Carnival) doesn't really start for two weeks, but hey... this is the Haiti... nothing like turnin' up the speakers on some soft kompas to get your feet, hips and shoulders swaying like the coconut palms that line the azur beaches!

For a Sunday afternoon, the boys had their engines revving, horns blaring and wings aloft as they sped up and down... up and down... up and down Rue Rochasse by 2pm:

And the onslaught of crowds, the first wave had arrived by 3pm:Heading le pwosession were the impromptu participants:Then comes the DJ with his amps in the back of a pickup:Then the boys! Covered in used motor oil and dressed in voodoo red, they love dragging people, such as this blanc, into the party:And the crew of oil-slicked, masked partiers continues:Of course, not all of the guys are willing to simply don their garb to show their love to Baron Samdi! At least one of them showed his love of the other gender:Unsurprisingly, he "she" wasn't too thrilled when a couple of other young men wanted some of the limelight (a.k.a. my camera). Ha!As I mentioned above, the people who are leading the party want everyone to partake... including the girl who lives directly across the street from me:
and despite my best efforts at avoiding getting slimed by what we consider hazardous waste in America, I couldn't entirely escape the party!Haitian Mardi Gras is good times!

Tim White

A day in the life: Bonbon Beach

I decided to visit the beach today. I figure it's February in the Caribbean, so I needed to head to the beach. Well, not exactly. Sure, I knew the beach is nice. But I was actually more interested in taking my bike outside of Jeremie Township. I got my bike a year ago and hadn't actually taken it out of town... or more precisely... out of my comfort zone. And that needed to end.

So I visited a beach that I last visited when I first arrived in October 2010. That way I knew with firsthand knowledge that I could do it. And I did it. No problems whatsoever and I did get a lot more comfortable switching gears on the uphill, downhill and rocky, pothole-filled road. And it's those potholes and ditches that make the ride so nerve-wracking.

Since the most of the road is a combination of limestone and clay -- with close to no pavement -- it's extremely difficult to see the danger zones. Unless you know the road well, you really need to drive fairly slow because it's so treacherous.

So slow I went. And enjoy I did.

Here's one view of the road that lie ahead of me on the way to Bonbon Beach:This section happened to be cemented because of the steep incline. Without the pavement, this section would be an impassable washout.

Here's the view of the Caribbean from the top of the same hill:Nice, huh?

Before I actually arrived at the beach, I knew that I had to cross a river that passed through downtown Bonbon. Actually it was two as it turned out.

The water was deeper than I had recalled, so I turned off my bike and walked around to see the best place to cross. Within a minute a mototaxi driver was running across the river and offering to help me by driving my bike across the river himself. He hopped on my bike and drove across as I dipped my feet in the warm river and walked across. Each river was calm and only a few inches deep. Although the muffler was partially submerged, the tailpipe exit stayed above water. So he simply kept the bike in 1st gear until he go to dry land. Easy peasy.

For his entrepreneurial-spirit, I gave him a buck. And since I'm so cheap since I wanted to experience the thrill, I decided I'd fording the raging class 5 rapids on my return! lol.

About another quarter mile on dry land and I made it Bonbon Beach!Here's the view to the left:And below is a slighter closer shot of the cliffs you see above:Here's more a view of the beach to the left:And a view of Bonbon beach with a view of Bonbon Town, a fishing town, on the left side.And the whole beach and town are basically nestled a beautiful little cove:This photo doesn't do the cove justice, so I encourage you to use your imagination!

Tim White

Saturday, February 04, 2012

A day in the life: no glass houses, just tarps or ciment

When I went for a walk around town this morning, I ventured into one of the slums -- one of the slums where we're doing some great work.

Here is a pic of one of our houses under construction:On the left side of the photo you see an example of what most houses look like in the Makandal slum. Though using a tarpaulin for their roof isn't all that bad. There are also houses that in which both the roof and walls are made of tarps. Some have a footprint as small as 10' x 15', yet have a dozen people living in it!

It's upsetting to say the least. But at least we're making progress. HHF has already made 50 houses in what is probably one of the poorest neighborhoods in the world.

And here are some pix of those finished houses with the family already returned:With their new home, they now focus their limited resources on commerce. The small buckets of charcoal you see are the family business. They'll buy a sack of charcoal for about 200 Haitian gouds, then split it up into these buckets that sell for about 35 Haitian gouds. With the exchange rate at about 40 gouds to 1 dollar, it doesn't take a mathematician to know these people are living in poverty. But again, they now have one of their biggest expenses covered: housing.One thing is for sure around here. You can be certain that no one here will be throwing stones in glass houses. Most people live in houses made of tarps and rusted, corrugated tin... and a few lucky ones -- the poorest of the poor -- are the beneficiaries of some beautiful new cement houses, replete with elevated floors to keep the street garbage from coming in the house during floods.

Tim White

A day in the life: I found another Haitian fruit

Back in May I shared pictures of some Haitian fruit trees around my place. Just today I found a papaya tree too:And one thing I've learned about papaya is that it's not just a fruit, but it doubles as a veggie -- something like a squash -- when it's still young like these:As they ripen and become the classic papaya fruit, they turn yellow / orange.

Tim White

Wednesday, February 01, 2012

HHFs soccer program gets props from ESPN

ESPN just ran this nice article about our girl's soccer & responsible sexuality program. The nurse who coordinates the program is named Marc Antoine, a soft-spoken guy who makes a great effort at outreach and inclusion.

I'm not getting into many details, but I can assure you that anyone in Cheshire would be shocked at how little is known by most country girls here. It is a reality that some girls are unaware of their pregnancy until they start to obviously show in their third trimester. Things have improved in our region, but awareness is still too low... and it's abysmally low in the areas beyond our region. But as our founder, Jerry Lowney, says... "We just help one person at a time."

Tim White

Saturday, January 28, 2012

A day in the life: gwiot -- Haiti's national food

Haitians love gwiot. Also spelled griot, gryot, gryote, etc.* (pronounced "gwee oht"), it's fried pork.

I understand why. The stuff is good. And lucky for me, I happen to live directly across the street from the most famous griot restaurant in Jeremie! I'm a regular there.

Anyway... when I popped over tonight for "dix dola" (pronounced "deese doh luh") worth of pork, I got the usual quarter pound of fried pork along with some spicy cole slaw... which I love too.

Here are some pix from my favorite gwiot restaurant. This is the staff putting some gwyot into one of the little plastic bags in which she serves the food:In the background you can see the pot in which they deep fry the pork over the traditional charcoal fire... the same charcoal that is obtained by denuding Haiti.

Here's a pic of the mom (red neckerchief on her head) who runs the restaurant in front of their house:Needless to say, there are no zoning regulations that prohibit food establishments from being located in a residential area. Sadly, there are no zoning regs... which was a large part of the problem with the destruction of the earthquake.

And here's a close-up of the nightly dinner offering:That's the daily butchered pork to the left of the tray. The circular, yellow chips are standard fare: deep-fried plantain chips. And to the right is the spicy hot cole slaw.

When I first arrived, I was hesitant to eat here. And the cholera outbreak only compounded my fears. But I'm long past those concerns. Frankly, I got past most of those concerns when I lived in Vietnam. If I choose to live someplace, then I choose to there and accept what is thrown my way.

Tim White

* As far as I can tell, Haitian Creole has no definitive spelling for many words.

Saturday, January 21, 2012

A day in the life: Helping those in need

I know I took my leave of absence from Cheshire more than a year ago, but our community continues to think of me. This Christmas, several people reached out to me to see how they could help. Among those who contacted me was the Congregational Church.

For all the years I was on the Council, the Church consistently helped Cheshire residents in need. In particular, via the Town, the Church helped fund our local heating assistance program. And make no mistake -- there are Cheshire residents in need of help. As America's middle class gets hit hard and shrinks, so does that of Cheshire. It's wonderful what the Congregational Church does, especially for the Town heating assistance fund.

But along with all the help offered to Cheshire residents by the Church, others are also helped. My organization, the Haitian Health Foundation was recently awarded a grant by the Church. It's intended to help with the education of two young Haitians:

That's me with Pharah in the pink sweater and Alinice in the pink/orange dress. The grant will assist with their education. Keep in mind that there is no public education in Haiti. The lack of public education is a recipe for poverty in perpetuity IMO. But thankfully there are many, such as the Church, who try to end the dreadful cycle.

What makes the situation even worse for Pharah and Alinice is that, as you may be able to see, they are both dwarfs. And discrimination exists here in Haiti just as it exists in the USA. So the hurdles to their dreams of a better life are that much more difficult for them to overcome.Further compounding the challenges faced by Pharah, 19, and Alinice, 12, is that they are both in the second grade. While that may be surprising to some, it's not at all uncommon here in Haiti. Since there is no public education, some kids take years off between grades. If they have no money, then they can't attend school. And the next time they have money is when they return to school. So there are 19 and 20 year olds in elementary school. (To further demonstrate this point... you can literally walk into a classroom and, based on the height of the kids, think it's a 5th grade class... only to learn it's 1st grade.)

However, dwarfs in Haiti do have a blessing in disguise. You can imagine how awful and embarrassing it could be for a full-grown adult to attend a third grade class. Yes, one should be excited about the opportunity and be focused on learning, but people are people.* It can be incredibly difficult to endure primary education as an adult. But being the same height as your classmates is beneficial.

So while it's difficult for a full-grown adult to attend second grade, Pharah's life is a bit easier because she doesn't stick out like a sore thumb in 2nd grade. And when you're born into a life of poverty in one of the poorest countries in the world, every little benefit you do have stands out that much more.

On behalf of Pharah and Alinice, I thank the Church for their help. And I also thank my bosses, Dr. Jerry Lowney (HHFs wonderful founder who lives in Norwich) and Sister Maryann Berard. Both Jerry and Sister Maryann have dedicated the past quarter century of their lives to the poor of Jeremie, Haiti.


Here is Sister Maryann with Pharah and Alinice:Sister Maryann is a saint.

Tim White

* Although I grew up -- and spent most of my life -- in Cheshire, I've also lived in France, Vietnam and Haiti. And one thing I've concluded is that despite cultural differences among peoples, there are many common denominators among us. So consider for a second being an 18 year old in middle school. The taunting could be horrendous. And make no mistake... people of all cultures can be cruel. On a regular basis I endure racism here, particularly from the 13 and 14 year olds in my neighborhood. But I overlook it because of the hardships endured by so many people -- so many good people -- here.

Sunday, January 15, 2012

A day in the life: recycling food

Haitians recycle a lot. Here's a picture of some local citrus fruits called "shadek" and some oranges. The best description I can offer of a shadek is that it's somewhere between and orange and a grapefruit... both in terms of size and sweetness:After the fruit inside is eaten (or squeezed for juice), you're left with the rinds that get the skin removed:Then the skinless rinds are left in the sun to dry:Then the rinds get boiled:and eventually become preserves for breakfast bread:In some ways, Haiti has taught me some useful lessons about recycling and living a more sustainable life. I hope I can put those lessons to use when I return to America.

Tim White

A day in the life: my tropical roommate

Here's a picture of my roommate. He was also my roommate in Vietnam.
Tim White

Friday, January 06, 2012

Ron Paul takes the gloves off with Rick Santorum

Ron Paul took the gloves off. He started with Newt. Now it's Santorum:My choices at this point:

1) Ron Paul

2) Rick Perry / Jon Huntsman

I love the fact that Rick Perry actually challenges Bernanke and the Fed. But I also appreciate Huntsman being willing to ratchet back the aggressive foreign policy being pushed by Newt and Santorum.

Tim White